laminated wood bicycle mudguards

by:Runcheng Chuangzhan     2019-09-10
This Instructure will teach you how to make a beautiful set of wooden Fender/Fender for your bike.
This is an ongoing work.
I will complete the mud guard in the next week or so and update as I move forward.
My inspiration came from this guy.
Earlier this year, although my bike was fixed, I built a bamboo bike with this manual.
Now, I plan to travel by bike on it, so I need to equip the bike in the right way.
Why do fenders?
Because the beautiful Fender is expensive.
Since my bike is home, the standard Fender will not be installed easily.
Because I like to make things.
Why do you want to make wood protection boards?
Because the wood is beautiful, it will be very comfortable to ride a bicycle with bamboo.
Because I like to work with wood and I\'m ready.
My Fender is 1.
5 inch wide and about 1/4 thick.
They are designed to cover 3/8 of the diameter of my wheels.
They have an inner radius of 14 inch and are ideal for size 23-25 tires.
They are laminated (
The process of bonding several layers of thin material together to form a thicker material.
This also allows the bonded wood to bend around the shape or mold and clamp until the glue dries and leaves a curved laminate)
From three layers of wood.
The top floor has a \"racing stripe\" pattern made by alternating light and dark wood on its width.
For example, these plans are easy to adapt to riding mountain bike tires in spring. MaterialsWood --
I used beech, a light-colored wood, and most of the fenders used beech ilianmahogany, and the dark racing stripes were made with the limilianmahogany. Plywood --
To bend your wood.
Because my Fender is 1.
5 inch wide, the thickness I used to lie there was 3/4. varnish --
I need some Marines.
Grade spar varnish left over from another project. glue --
Normal wood glue, no need to waterproof. screws --
For ply that connects two thicknesses, they can be bonded alternately.
Make sure they are long enough to reach the second floor, but short enough to reach the other side. drill bits --
Used to drill holes on plywood to accept screws.
The size depends on the thickness of the screw. tape --
Shielding or piping for bonding
Prove something you don\'t want. 1 or 1. 5mm)
Stainless steel sheet-
For manufacturing installation systems.
I also purchased the \"Sheldon Fender nut\" for the mounting system tool drill \"--
For drilling guide holes for form.
Dremel will work too.
Installation System is also required. jig saw --
Plywood used to cut the curve into a template.
It can be done by hand with a handle saw.
You may also want to protect your ears and eyes.
Wood Planing and table saw--
Cut the wood to the right size.
Or do it in a simple way. i did)
Let the local carpenter do that for you.
Building veneers can also be considered, with a thickness of up to 2.
5mm, but a bit expensive.
You may still need the plane anyway.
Sharp tool knife-
Used to cut strips into length. clamps --a good number.
I used 10 clips of all kinds, mostly spring clips and some bar clips. circle-Drawing equipment--
I don\'t have a compass big enough, so I improvise with pencils, nails and hammers, and a rope.
Measuring tapeset Square--
Or draw a triangle to draw a triangle. -
I used 80 sand and 240 sand which is what I have.
A small piece of wood used as a grinding block. screw driver --
Something to use with your ironing cloth or paper towel--
In order to clear the excess glue after confusing how to install my fenders to avoid them interfering with my brakes, I decided to make each fenders as two separate parts, one with a little bit in front.
At the front of the bike, the components are mounted on the brake bolt through the metal plate.
But due to the particularity of my bike, the back bike has to be clipped in the seat of the bike.
As I said before, I want 3/8 of each wheel to be covered with a Fender.
I split it into a fender 2/3 behind the seat (or front fork)
1/3 in front.
I calculated that in the case of a radius of 14 inch, the longer fender must be about 20 inch long, and the front fender must be half of the front fender.
So, in order to dress my bike, I need three 20 inch fenders, one of which is cut in half, half of the front wheel and half of the rear wheel.
I also decided to make a Fender for a friend who also made a bamboo bike and will be my travel partner.
So I need to make 6 20 inch fenders to equip the two bikes.
So this is the stage where you need to figure out how much wood you need.
I need wood because of my racing stripes.
Wide 5 inch. 5 inches wide (So a lightdark-
The light pattern on the top floor is still 1. 5 inches wide).
Here\'s how I can figure out how much it will cost: each 20 inch Fender needs: 2 layers 20 \"x1.
5 \"x1/8\" 1 layer formed by 2x20 \"x.
5 \"x1/8\" and 1x20 \"x.
5 different \"x1/8 \"(
Darker in my case)
Wooden X3 Fender for each bicycle (
Separate between two wheels)
X2 bike = 10 linear feet of dark wood.
5 \"x1/8\" 20 linear feet, each with the same lightweight wood. 5\" and 1.
5 \"x 1/8\" woodI has a little extra wood in all width in case I messed up anything.
Let\'s say you pre-cut the wood like me, if you want to do it yourself, I have no experience telling you how to do it, and the first step after completing the size is to make your form.
You need plywood, tape measure, pencil, rope, nail, hammer, screw (i used three)
Drill holes with the right size drill bit and clamp saw.
Nail your nails on your floor and measure 14 inch points (
Or anything you decide for your radius)from it.
Tie the rope around the pencil, as close as possible to the tip of the pencil.
I used two half turns.
Then, make sure the pencil is at right angles to the surface of the floor, pick up the tension on the rope, and wrap it firmly around the nail.
Place one hand at the end of the nail of the rope to prevent it from sliding and carefully draw your circle.
I drew what I thought was the right length and then measured it around the curve with another rope.
It\'s not 20 inch and I want to draw a few inches more on the table so I drew an extra location and re-painted it againmeasure.
I think it\'s about 24 inch along the curve.
There are two ways from here.
Either reposition the nail and do the whole thing over again, or if you\'re lazy, take out your clamp saw, cut the curve, and draw the next one with it.
I\'m lazy.
One thing to note: for the bottom of the curve, I just drew something by hand with no care.
This caused the problem.
You can draw it by hand, but try to make sure the two bases are similar or you will have a hard time keeping the clip.
Also, pay attention to how thick your shapes are, because if you have small clips, it\'s hard for you to put them around laminated wood and thick shapes.
Once you have cut your two plywood curves, try to arrange them smoothly.
Once you\'re satisfied, clip the pieces together.
After clamping the screw, mark the position of the screw and use the drill bit (
Or use a drill like I did)
Go through two pieces all the way and drill your pilot hole.
Then, screw in your screws while still clamping.
Now, you\'re ready to start lamination.
To do this you need: your newly built form, wood, tape measure, pencil, fixed square or triangle, knife, glue (
Can spread it with something if you don\'t want to use your finger)
Thin scrap wood blocks for clips, pipes or masking tape, gaskets.
Start by cutting the wood to a certain length.
You can do it in two ways.
You can cut your wood too long, plan to trim it at the end, or you can trim it more precisely, make the most of your wood and save your future work
I chose the latter.
I want 20 long fenders.
But I didn\'t cut each layer into 20 \".
This is because each successive layer revolves around a larger radius curve.
So my bottom is 20 inch and each layer is 1/8 long.
So I marked the length, got a right angle line with the set square, and cut the pieces with a knife.
I added a step before I started to glue my work.
I have more than 1 left of my one.
5 \"wood, covered with tape-proof it.
I use it as the fourth floor, both to protect the top floor from the damage of the clip, and to spread the force of the clip more evenly.
The glue I use only needs to apply a surface but to check your surface.
A surface of the bottom layer, a surface of the middle layer.
This means that, more cumbersome, there is no need for glue at the bottom.
However, I did put a little glue on the thin edge of the mahogany sheet to make sure the strips were kept together and the edges went to the edges.
I align the end of my Shard and add my fourth glue
Placed my first clip at the top of the table.
Then I put the clip on both sides of that side, about to the last half.
At each end I used my heavy duty bar clip.
Then I started filling the gap between these 5 clips with other clips.
I am looking for a place where the three layers of wood are not tightly pressed together.
In some places I had to use my little wood gasket to get more pressure.
I wiped the glue out.
Then I let it dry.
Use my glue for about 12 hours.
Check yours again.
After I did it, I removed the clip and the anti-rubber strip and the viola!
The Fender is down right away and looks great.
It is very stiff and almost no bending along its length, which is great.
Several topics will be covered in this section.
First of all, if you have already made your form, but you decide to do a Fender that is longer than your form.
The second thing is to become fancy.
Not satisfied with the racing stripes?
I will teach you how to make some more interesting patterns. Over-
SizedMudguardsI was only included in the section becausethis coming to me.
After making my first Fender and testing its installation on my rear wheel, I came up with a way to get my fender on my rear wheel
But now I \'ve made my form too small for such a long Fender. not to worry.
There is no need to do a new one, in some ways this way is better than the \"correct length\" effect of the form.
\"However, this method does require at least one very long bar clip.
Basically everything I do is exactly the same except to extend the end of the fender on either side of my body and then pull both ends with a long clip, following the curve of the table.
One thing to note is that the Fender is considered centered on form I. e.
Stick out the same length Fender outside the shape of each end.
Let FancyI decide to make a fender with a more complex pattern.
The top floor is still a racing stripe pattern, but it is interrupted by a sloping dotted line consisting of alternating light and a dark parallelogram. (
Photos will show up soon if you can\'t imagine).
This is where you are truly creative and come up with something unique to your taste.
If you end up with a complex pattern that is hard to organize, you can stick all the pieces to a piece of tape throughout the lamination process.
As far as I know, this has never been done before!
So I don\'t know how good it would be to laminate and all of these separate parts together.
I made this with extra wood, after I made all the fenders I needed.
So, if it breaks down, I have a replacement anyway.
The first step is to sort out the wood on the fender and then waterproof them.
Trimming woodI will refer to several different parts of the Fender in this section.
The \"edge\" I mean is the long, thin edge.
The \"end\" I mean the short end.
\"Top\" refers to the outside of the curve--
What will be seen on the completed bike.
\"Bottom\" means the inside of the curve, which is not visible.
I used a wooden plane to trim the edges.
Adjust the blade so it only needs the smallest wood.
Then, take the plane in one hand (
I use my left hand, right hand)
Fender on the other side.
Before I deal with my Wood, lean the plane against your body, continue painting the wood along me and figure out how I will install the fender.
There are several reasons for this.
First of all, I know I will drill my Fender and I would like to be able to handle the inside of the hole to prevent rot.
Secondly, some parts of my installation system are permanent, so I want to work on them below.
Here is the process I designed to install the system.
This is certainly not the only way to do it and may need to be adjusted to use the bike.
First of all, I ordered the Sheldon Fender nut made by the problem solver.
You can easily find them online, although they are expensive, it makes the installation system a little more elegant.
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