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powerful laminated wood slingshot
After making the wood comfortable using band saw, Sander, rolling saw, of course, I feel like I\'m ready to try one of them.
There are a lot of great videos on YouTube showing how to make these videos using a variety of different materials that give me extra confidence that I can start on my own.
I \'ve been thinking about what can be a good slingshot, and the first thing that comes to mind is that it will be comfortable to hold it.
Then there is the beauty of the wood used to make it, and finally the power.
I made this Slingshot and then made a similar slingshot to practice my wood forming ability while getting an interesting and useful tool from the deal.
The cost of building this building is very low.
Plywood 2\'x4 \'sheet-
$7, I used less than 1 square foot and there was a lot of other stuff --$0. 35Thera-
For free, I asked if my P/T was worth £ 6 and he just gave it to mekumaru-
Free, leftover from other items
Free, oil remaining from other projects-
$9, I used about a teaspoon of polyurethane worth using
Leather corners for other items-
I think this Slingshot is free.
Does not include the time of polishing)
It will cost about $3.
You don\'t need a lot of wood because the Slingshot are small. Cut-
Except for the softest Wood, the scrap, scrap and residue of almost any kind of wood should work properly.
It was a part of the fun for me;
Run out of debris that just took up space!
I will list the materials and tools I use, but of course you can change it to something you have to use.
Materialswood gluescrap wood is 3/4 \"wide, and if you want your design to be more complex, use a few more layers of thin planks.
I use plywood, camaroo, and red oak black, silver or golden Syracuse bands or their equivalent thick leather to make the potchtools ssand paper and a lot of it!
80 with at least 1500 grit0000 steel wool Chrome polishing and polishing mat or oil cloth/linen oil polyurethane resin for cleaning brush tool with sanding, grinding, polished bitsscroll saw band sawbelt sanderdrill1 \"bithack shovel saw tile cutting bladecoping sawfiles and raspsscissorther punchxacto knifenedle-
Nose pliersI saw many different, very successful slingshot designs online and wanted to come up with a design that belongs to me.
This kind of knuckles-
The Shan design seems to be not only ergonomic, but different, and its purpose is to have a \"positive lock\" on the handle \".
Use your finger through this hole and if you lose grip on the frame when you are full pumping, it won\'t be left on you. Safety first!
Whatever you like, draw your design by hand on your computer.
The design should be symmetrical, at least in terms of the size of the fork and their distance from the center of the frame.
Once you decide the design you like, print it out with scissors or x-
Acto to be used as a template.
I tried to transfer the design to dark wood (cumaru)
With a pencil, it is difficult to see the exact cut.
I use the template like a template and spray the primer on the wood to get my cutting line.
I cut tighter curves with a rolling saw and most of the rest are cut with a band saw.
I used a very simple saw to trim.
I drilled the finger hole with a 1 \"shovel.
As I said in another instruction sheet, cumaru is a very hard wood.
It\'s hard to work, and it will slow down your tools soon.
However, in one of the comments I received, the poster said that if you process the wood with hand tools, it is slower and the wood will be more in line with the requirements.
Once I started using saw things became much easier.
Next time I cut cumaru, it\'s OK with a hand saw!
The fork block and grip block are cut in such a way that the blocks will be locked each other and some strength is obtained through this type of joint.
Use a large amount of wood glue (
I used non-waterproof glue because I knew I would apply this glue to the polyurethane to prevent it from getting wet.
If you like the natural look of wood, I recommend using waterproof wood glue like Titebond III)
Lock two pieces together.
The decoration of these two pieces is very tight, so I don\'t need to clip them together when they are dry.
If your fork is not very tight, clamp the side of the fork to the grip and clamp the grip to the middle of the fork to ensure good, firm fit.
* Please note in the picture that the cumaru handle is not taken with glue.
I forgot to take pictures of the glue coating process, so when I built another one, I took the picture and added it here.
I then glued the pieces to the handle with normal wood glue, eventually making it a round, ergonomic shape.
I know I want it to look like the different types of wood I want, so these are all specific to slingshot.
You can certainly do yours the same way, but be sure to try your own design to get the coolest look if you want!
Once the glue is dry and the wood is loose, you can start grinding, polishing and filing.
You will notice how much extra material has to be removed by polishing, etc.
Don\'t leave so much extra wood if you can help.
If you can, cut the filling block as close as possible to the shape of the handle and fork.
It will save you a lot of time on the road.
You really want to get as close as possible to the handle shape to shape the filled Wood: It took me nearly 10 hours to reduce the excess wood to the sawdust that covered most of the timber stores in my basement.
If I had done extra work earlier in the process, I would have easily saved half the time and cleanup time.
This has not happened yet.
Use the most aggressive rasps and Sanders/sandpaper to shape the filled wood into a grip shape and you have to really \"pig\" the wood out.
Once you start approaching the finished shape, you want to be more careful about how to remove the excess wood.
At this point, I started using the Dremel tool on the curvature near the finger hole and under the fork, with a grinding drill with 60 sandpaper.
It quickly removed the excess wood and I had good control over it as well.
Continue refining and filling the wood until there is a smooth, even texture in the handle and Fork area, so it feels like it has been a piece of wood.
You want the shape of the handle to be your guiding shape.
When you\'re shaping, repeatedly try to hold a slingshot with any hand you use when shooting.
Start raising your sand when it feels right.
I stopped the \"shaping\" with 220 sandpaper, then cleaned up a little with 0000 steel wire, ready for refueling and polyurethane.
There are very few sawdust here. :-)
Select a point about 3/4 down from the top of the fork to make the band groove.
Use a hacksaw with a tile cutting blade to cut 1/2 of the width of the blade into a fork.
Do this around each fork.
After completion, smooth the groove with a mouse tail file or a chainsaw sharp file to help ease some rough edges and widen the groove.
After it\'s done, use 150-give it a final smoothingor-
So, sand paper.
I did this not only to help protect the wood, but also to give the wood a richer look than the regular old plywood.
I use tung oil, but you can use linen oil, teak oil, olive oil, etc.
I wiped some on the paper towel and then wiped until the slingshot was covered and then let it dry for 12 hours. Easy peasy.
I have promised some serious time in this step.
I want a mirror.
Like the gloss on the wood
If you want this light, warn you in advance.
Great if you want a more delicious end or a dull end!
You just saved yourself-
Micro polishing time 5 hours!
I painted three layers of thick polyurethane coating with a foam brush, allowing each layer to dry between each layer for 12 hours.
After the last coat, I cured the polyurethane for 5 days.
If you start polishing the polyurethane before it gets hard, you\'ll ruin the mirror and have to start over.
Believe me, wait five days.
I started grinding with 150 sandpaper.
Have to admit that after all the time waiting for the Cure of polyurethane (
Looks good too)
I was shocked when I worn my beautiful clothes.
In a few seconds, it changed from real shiny to real nonsense.
I steadily went up to 220, then up to 320, then up to 600, then up to 1500.
Then use 0000 steel wool and Dremel polishing in low speed environment.
The light came back almost all the way, smoother than before.
The final step is to use the Chrome/stainless steel polishing you usually use on your car.
Put a little bit of this on the fabric and rub it on the polyurethane to completely restore the gloss.
It\'s been another four hours.
Like I said, seriously.
But I did reach the best finish I \'ve ever done on a piece of wood, so I\'m pretty happy with the finish result.
If you don\'t have any leather in your home that can be used to make small bags, see if there is a place in your area where you can redecorate furniture or sell leather products.
They often give away for free.
That\'s how I got me.
You want your bag to be big enough to hold anything in your slingshot for ammo.
I like to use marbles because they are cheap.
A bag of $100.
They also performed surprisingly well.
I used a ruler and a Sharpie to draw the picture on the leather into 4.
25 \"wide 3/4\" high.
I cut it off with heavy scissors.
I then trimmed the corners and marked the position of the hole I needed to punch to connect the straps.
I punched the original hole in the bag with leather punch, but my leather punch was far from large enough.
So I expanded the hole in the leather with the xacto knife.
The diameter of the completed hole is about 1/4.
This is the most stressful part of the whole project.
I have no way to trim the straps to the width I want.
The band is notorious for cutting small scissors.
Make labels on their sides and immediately create a weakness in the rubber that can be broken at any time. So a-
I went to Google.
I found a great video on The Slingshot Channel Forum using clear packing tape to make the work easier.
Cut your straps into the length of the slingshot you want to draw.
I determined my draw length by keeping one end of a band and estimating about 8 \"bands will be equal to 28\" draws.
I took the band and pulled it to my cheek and the pull felt good so I made the band 8 each.
In the photo you will see that I am just trimming the edges of the band.
I just do this to my band because my band has been trimmed once and has done a poor job.
So they are already narrower than the average band.
I ended up doing only two and putting them on the original width.
They pulled 22 pounds.
I think a thinner set of straps will be a little bit more powerful.
Then put your straps flat on the surface of your work.
Pull enough tape to cover your side.
Once you cover the side of the band with tape, flip them over and do the same thing on the other side.
Once you have tape on both sides, draw your cutting line in the middle of the strap with a ruler.
You want the width and length of your strap to be equal.
You should have four equal bands when you\'re done.
If you want to use all 4 straps on your slingshot, go and get them.
My instructions here are just one broadband per side.
I hope it\'s not too confusing!
Thanks to the video by Joger spraff, it was a cake to stick the band on the bag and fork.
Select one end of the strap, Roll 1 1/2 \"to form a cylinder that will fit the holes you make in the bag in size.
I put mine on the side of the bag with ammo and wrapped it outside the bag.
I don\'t know if this configuration will have an impact on how Slingshot are shot, but it makes sense to me, so I went.
Cut four 1/4 wide and 4 long Thera-
Band for tie.
Fold the strap that you pass through the pouch hole and let it reach above the pouch.
Take the thin rubber strip and hold the strap part closest to the bag with your thumb.
Wrap up the thin strips and it will stay where it is.
Wrap it tight about four times.
Before you do the fifth package, put a needle and nose pliers under the package you are going to do.
Put the strap on the pliers twice again.
Before you wrap the strip for the third time, put the end of it in the pliers.
Squeeze the pliers hold the strap very tightly and pull it all the way under the package above the pliers until it comes out from the other side.
Reduce the excess.
You should have a very safe band right now. pouch combo.
Repeat this procedure on the other side of the bag.
Your band combo is complete and you\'re ready to tie the band to a fork to shoot!
The method of connecting to the fork is the same as the method of connecting the bag.
Place the end of the band at the top of the fork so that it is flat in front of the fork.
Fix it in place with your thumb, then remove the next thin strip of Thera
Put it under your thumb too.
Start wrapping the strap around the strap the same way you do on the bag and fork it in the strap slot with a fork.
Trim the excess parts and then perform the same procedure on the other side. That\'s it!
Be careful when you take back your new belt on your slingshot for the first time.
Test it slowly, pull it too tightly, and then go a little further, a little further.
If one of the bands breaks down, a slap in the face from them is not the best experience. Have fun! Be careful!
Never shoot this slingshot at anything you\'re not going to hit.
You can use this slingshot to seriously hurt or hurt animals or people.